Kenneth E. Harker
2010 Croatia - Dubrovnik


Dubrovnik is an ancient walled city that is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Probably first established as a Greek fishing port prior to the Roman Empire, in the 7th century the city became a refuge for Dalmatians and Romans fleeing the invasions of the Slavic tribes. Then known as Ragusa, the city became one of the most important maritime city-states during the middle ages and early Renaissance. Through diplomacy and trade, Ragusa remained independent of the surrounding empires of Venice, the Hapsburgs, and the Ottoman Turks. Only in 1806 did the city surrender to the French during Napoleon's conquest of Europe. Following the Napoleonic Wars, the city was administered by Austria-Hungary and integrated into what would become modern Croatia. In 1991-1992, Dubrovnik was besieged by Serbian forces and the old city was heavily shelled by Serb artillery. Today, the city is a major tourist destination.

These photos are copyright © 2010 Kenneth E. Harker. All rights reserved.


The Old City of Dubrovnik | Dubrovnik at Night | Walking the Old City Walls | More Old City | Rector's Palace | The Old Harbor at Night | New City | Dubrovnik-Neretva County

The Old City of Dubrovnik

The main entrance to the old city of Dubrovnik for most new arrivals is the Pile Gate, in the center of the western wall.
Fort Bokar at the southwest corner of the old city walls gives you a good impression of how difficult a sea-based attack of the city would have been.
More of the western wall of the old city as you approach it from the bus stop.
To get to the Pile Gate, you had to cross a footbridge that today is made of stone but once upon a time would have been a wooden drawbridge.
Near all of the entrances to the old city are signs like this one that detail exactly where all of the shells hit during the bombardment of the old city by Serbian forces during the 1991-1992 Siege of Dubrovnik. 60% of the buildings in the old city were damaged.
Part of the door mechanism.
Even early in the morning, there were lots of tourists going in and out of the old city.
The bell tower at the Franciscan Monastery.
Onofrio's Fountain, a popular meeting spot and landmark.
A Catholic chapel next to the Franciscan Monastery.
The main gate into the Franciscan Monastery.
The Stradun was the main east-west street that traversed the entire city. It was also the lowest point of elevation in the old city, and was once a seawater canal between the mainland and a small island before being filled in to form a peninsula.
This side street off the Stradun on the north side of the street had many stairs as it climbed the hill up to the north wall.
The Stradun was also by far the widest street in the old city, and was paved entirely in stone that has been worn smooth by centuries of use.
At the eastern end of the Stradun was the municipal clock tower between the Sponza Palace and the Rector's Palace. The tower was built in 1444, and was last restored in 1928-1929.
The eastern end of the Stradun widens out to form a square called the Luza. On the southern side of this square is the Crkva Sv. Vlaha (Church of St. Blaise). St. Blaise is the patron saint of Dubrovnik and has an importance to the people of Dubrovnik similar to that of St. Mark the Evangelist to the people of Venice. This church was built in the 18th century.
Jen, standing next to Orlando's Column. Orlando's Column is at the heart of the Luza, and was where public notices, rallies, and punishments were held. Orlando ("Roland" in French) (d. 778) was a Frankish knight loyal to King Charlemagne. Immortalized in French and Italian poetry, he never visited anywhere near the Adriatic Sea, but was well regarded in Dubrovnik as a romantic defender of Catholic power in Europe.
The Rector's Palace is now a museum. A Gothic-Renaissance building, the palace once housed the city Rector, who acted as the chief executive of the city government. Elected to a one-month term, the Rector was not allowed to leave the building while in office.
Between the Rector's Palace and the Crkva Sv. Vlaha (Church of St. Blaise) is the wide avenue known as Pred Devorom. At the end of the avenue is the Katedrala Velike Gospe (Assumption Cathedral). The upper section of the cathedral building was covered in scaffolding for renovations.
On the east side of the old city, just outside the Placa Gate, was the old harbor. Today, only cruise boats, small ferries, and pleasure craft use this harbor.
Across the water is St. John's Fortress, the eastern-most portion of the old city walls. The fortress protected the approach to the harbor. The fortress walls date back to the 14th century.
Back inside the old city, the Katedrala Velike Gospe (Cathedral of the Assumption), also simply known as the Dubrovnik Cathedral, is the seat of the Catholic Diocese of Dubrovnik. A cathedral or church has been at this location since the 6th century, but this building was constructed over a course of 30 years following an earthquake in 1667.
A view of Pred Devorom, looking to the north. The domed building is the Crkva Sv. Vlaha (Church of St. Blaise).
A morning farmer's market in Gundulićeva Poljana (also known as Poljana Square or Gundulić Square), a small square near the Crkva Sv. Vlaha (Church of St. Blaise) and the Katedrala Velike Gospe (Cathedral of the Assumption).
The statue in the center of the square is of Ivan Gundulić (1589-1638) and was sculpted by Ivan Rendić (1849-1932) under a commission from the city government. A native of Dubrovnik (then the Republic of Ragusa), Gundulić was a famous poet whose works often supported the Roman Catholic Counter-Reformation. When the statue was unveiled in 1893, it brought out the nationalist tensions between the Croatian and Serbian communities in the area and led to demonstrations inside the city.
In addition to the farmer's market, the Gundulićeva Poljana had several restaurants that set up tables in the square.
This impressive set of baroque stairs leads up to the Jesuit Church and College.
Construction of the Jesuit Church of Saint Ignatius and Loyola in Dubrovnik was completed in 1725. The building was modeled after Rome's Chiesa del Gesu, the mother church of the Jesuit order.
Through this hole (the Door of Sv. Stejpan) in the southern wall of the Old City was a staircase that led down the side of a cliff to the Buza Cafe.
The Buza Cafe was pretty full when we were there. It is a world-famous drinking hole for its stunning location.
The bar hangs literally on the side of the cliff with the old city walls above you and the Adriatic Sea below you.
Not far from the Buza Cafe, this cat was meowing to be let back into its house. Dubrovnik had a lot of cats. With no cars in the old city, it was a relatively safe place to be a cat.
A typical street in southernmost part of the old city.
Another cat of Dubrovnik. Some of the cats I am sure were strays, but many were house cats out for their daily adventures.
This was a restaurant near our apartment in the old city of Dubrovnik. We were not brave enough to try the Mexican food of the Pizzeria Šilok.
This cat seemed to frequent a street corner near our apartment on Za Rokom.
The Serbian Orthodox Church in the old city of Dubrovnik. Only about 5% or so of the city was Serbian prior to the War of Croatian Independence, and the population is substantially smaller today.
Back on the Stradun, looking west.
Dinner of pizza and local red wine at Pizzeria Angelina.

Dubrovnik at Night

One night, we had dinner at a cafe in the old port. The view of the harbor was very nice. The bottle of wine in the photo was from a local winery.
The Katedrala Velike Gospe (Assumption Cathedral) at night.
A statue of Sv. Vlaha (St. Blaise), the patron saint of Dubrovnik.
Looking into Ulca Od Puca, a narrower east-west street that parallels the Stradun to the south. Behind the building on the left is the Gundulićeva Poljana.
A statue of Marin Držić (1508-1567). Držić was a Croatian Renaissance playwright and author. A native of Dubrovnik, Držić became alienated from the city leaders and unsuccessfully sought help from the Medici family of Florence to attempt to overthrow the Dubrovnik city government, but died suddenly while abroad in Venice.
The Crkva Sv. Vlaha (Church of St. Blaise) at night.
The Stradun at night, as seen from the Luza.
A cat.
The atrium in the Sponza Palace at night.
Orlando's Column at night. The signboard is advertising a concert scheduled for the coming weekend.
The Stradun at night, looking west.
These oil lanterns were placed out in all of the squares of the old city at night.
The dome on the Crkva Sv. Vlaha (Church of St. Blaise).

Walking the Old City Walls

We spent a little over an hour one morning to walk all the way around the old city of Dubrovnik on top of the city walls. The walls were constructed in the 14th and 15th centuries, but have been renovated and repaired continuously since then. Our walk started above the Pile Gate at the western end of town. This is looking down the Stradun to the east.
The south side of the old city was higher in elevation than the Stradun.
A Croatian flag flying above the Pile Gate.
Outside the old city, near the Pile Gate is a major bus stop. From here, you can take a city bus to the intercity bus station, the main ferry terminal, or any of a number of resort hotels on the coast.
Fort Lovrijenac (St. Lawrence Fortress) is an early 11th century fortress located outside the western walls of the old city of Dubrovnik. It is considered a key strategic position in the defense of the city.
Like other tourist attractions, Dubrovnik has come up with its own "changing of the guard" theatricals. Here, pikemen are walking across the bridge to the Pile Gate.
Fort Bokar on the southwest corner of the city walls commands a nearly 360 degree view. The fort was built from 1461 to 1463, and is the oldest casement fortress in Europe.
The southern wall of the old city, towering over the Adriatic Sea.
At the southwest corner of the old city, some of the buildings are still in ruins from the Serbian shelling in 1991-1992.
Looking back at Fort Lovrijenac (St. Lawrence Fortress) and the area of the city just outside the Pile Gate.
A cruise boat in the Adriatic Sea, passing by the old city.
Me, near the southwest corner of the old city walls.
The view out to sea from the top of the old city walls.
The water was really blue.
The island in the distance is Lokrum Island.
A yacht passing between Lokrum Island and the old city of Dubrovnik.
In the southeast side of town, this was one of two sport courts in the old city. This one was full size and looks to be used for basketball, soccer, and handball. The building behind the court was a school.
A view of the Buza Cafe from above.
A view of the southeast corner of the old city. The rocks below the wall have some terraces for sunbathers and even some stairs down into the water for those that want to swim.
Another yacht in the Adriatic Sea.
Another part of the old city that hasn't been rebuilt after the Croatian War of Independence.
St. John's Fortress, the entrance to the old harbor, and the Ploče neighborhood outside the old city.
The date 1886 in a stone in the walkway on top of the old city walls. One of the reasons that the old city of Dubrovnik looks much the same as it did 500 years ago is that the city regularly repairs all of its fortifications as needed.
The view across the roof lines of the old city. Traditional Croatian roofs are made from orange terracotta tiles.
An old cannon pointing out to sea. This cannon is an antique and was not used to return fire in the bombardment of the city in 1991-1992.
A building in the Jesuit College had three bells above its roof.
Boats in the Old Harbor.
Jen, on the old city wall, with the Rector's Palace and the Old Harbor behind her. The Ploče Gate is just to the right of the Rector's Palace.
The municipal bell tower.
Ferry boats in the old harbor take passengers to and from Lokrum Island, the beaches at Cavtat, and other nearby coastal destinations. This is the halfway point of the walk around the old city.
St. John's Fortress and the old harbor, with Lokrum Island in the background.
Some of the buildings in the Dominican Monastery in the northeast corner of the old city, which commands a view of the Ploče Gate and the old harbor.
A view of the old harbor, looking east out into the Adriatic.
The Minčeta Tower on the north wall of the old city was added to the city's fortification in 1463, at the height of the Turkish threat to the Catholic city. This tower is the highest point in the old city of Dubrovnik.
The northern wall of the old city was its main defense against a land-based invasion.
The orange terracotta roofs of the old city of Dubrovnik.
The bell tower of the Dominican Monastery in the northeast corner of the old city.
The very large building on the south side of the old city is the Old Granary building.
Another sport court at a school in the old city. This one is not full-size.
Stone masons were working on the Minčeta Tower, repairing damage from the 1991-1992 Siege of Dubrovnik.
One of the city flags of Dubrovnik.
From the top of the Minčeta Tower, you can see almost all of the old city.
The city outside of the old city walls, looking west toward the port.
Another building in need of repair.
A small garden inside the old city.
The walls directly above Pile Gate on the west side of the old city. We completed the entire circuit of 1.9 km (1.2 miles).

More Old City

In one of the narrow side street north of the Stradun, we found a nice sidewalk cafe for lunch. The sandwich Jen is holding was made with pršut (prosciutto in Italian) and a local cheese.
Another morning at the farmer's market in Gundulićeva Poljana.
Street performers dressed like pirates with parrots. These performers show up when the large groups from the cruise ships arrived.
Looking down one of the many narrow streets in the old city. Cafes and coffee shops often appropriated part of the street for tables.
Prijeko Street was lined with cafes and restaurants for several hundred meters. It wasn't perfectly level, but it did not have stairs.
A street going up to a more residential part of the old city.
A cat in Dubrovnik.
A door to the Dominican Monastery in the northeast corner of the city.
A view of the old harbor from the Ploče Gate.
Another view of the Serbian Orthodox Church.
A view of the old city from the neighborhood to the north.
The neighborhood just outside the old city walls.
A typical street intersection in central Dubrovnik.
Some flowers by the north wall of the old city.
A typical street scene in the old city.
Some interesting flavors at a sladoled (Italian-style ice cream) shop.
A water fountain near the Pile Gate.
Men dressed in Renaissance period costume, marching on the Stradun.
A cat.

Rector's Palace

The Rector's Palace is the building in which the Rector lived during his term of office. A Rector was elected from among the noble families of the city, and served a one-month term. During the term, he was not allowed to leave the palace. Today, the building houses a museum with artifacts and historical artwork of Dubrovnik.
A statue of Sv. Vlaha (St. Blaise).
Another statue.
Money chests were important to the merchant class during the Renaissance, and could have extremely elaborate locking mechanisms. This chest was made entirely of iron.
The Rector's Palace had two cells for holding prisoners.
One of the cells in which criminals or debtors could be held by the Rector.
Iron bars on the windows.
A typical doorway inside the Rector's Palace.
A water fountain.
A bronze bust of Michael Prazatto, a prominent Ragusan. The pedestal text is written in Italian, the language of the city at the time, and has the date 1638 in Roman numerals.
The main courtyard of the Rector's Palace.
Stairs leading up to the first floor above ground.
These whimsical handrails were carved to look like hands.
The upper floor.
More architectural details on the first floor above ground.

The Old Harbor at Night

Walking along the old harbor at night was very romantic. The sea was very calm and the temperature was perfect.
We strolled to the end of the jetty that extends from the base of St. John's Fortress.
It was a peaceful night.

New City

Approaching the city from the north, the main road crosses Franjo Tuđman Bridge, named after the first President of the newly independent Croatia.
To get to and from the old city of Dubrovnik, we took a city bus to the Autobusni Kolodvor Dubrovnik, the main bus station for the city. The bus station was located next to the ferry terminal and the modern port facilities for the city. The city bus ride to the bus station took about twenty minutes, along the waterfront and through the newer parts of the city.
Yachts anchored in the new harbor. The land on the other side of the water is the Lapad Peninsula, the most upscale part of town.
The main building at Luka Dubrovnik, the Port of Dubrovnik.
The new harbor is much larger than the old harbor by the walled city.

Dubrovnik-Neretva County

The bus ride from the Autobusni Kolodvor Dubrovnik to the Dubrovnik airport gave us another opportunity to see the coast. The island offshore is Lokrum Island.
All along the coast were orange tiled roofs.
The city of Dubrovnik, as seen from the south. Notice the large cruise ship. Dubrovnik is a popular destination for Adriatic Sea cruises.
This village was called Kopari.
Approaching Cavtat, there are many small islands offshore.
The harbor at Cavtat.
Way off in the distance, you can still see the old walled city of Dubrovnik.
The Dubrovnik Airport (DBV). From here, we returned to Zagreb (ZAG) via Croatia Airlines. Although it was a domestic flight, our flightpath took us mostly over Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Last Updated 1 August 2018