Jen and I spent an afternoon visiting Lovran (population 3,200), a small coastal town on the eastern shore of the Istrian peninsula. Lovran is at the southern terminus of the lungomare, a seaside walking path that covers 12 km (7.5 miles) of coastline all the way from Rijeka in the north. Lovran is also on the same local bus system as Rijeka and Opatija. The town's tourist economy is not as developed as Opatija, but is still the most important local industry. Lovran's special attraction is its very dense city center, with pedestrian-only streets that haven't changed since medieval times. Although it was only 150 meters east-west and 100 meters north-south, the old town had the feeling of stepping back in time to an older age, with very few tourists.
These photos are copyright © 2010 Kenneth E. Harker. All rights reserved.
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We entered the old town in Lovran at Trg Sv. Juraj (St. George Square). On the square is the old city tower, which dates to medieval times. Like the medieval city-states of Italy, Lovran's city tower served as part of the walled town's defenses. The upper parts of the tower were destroyed and rebuilt in the 17th century. |
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This is the entrance to Crkva Sv. Juraj (the Church of Saint George) on Trg Sv. Juraj. It was built in the 14th century in a Romanesque style, although excavations indicate that it was built on the foundations of a 12th century church. | ![]() |
Across the square from the church is a building that housed the medieval city council chamber. Above the entrance door is a relief sculpture of St. George killing the dragon. The legend of St. George and the dragon probably arose in Georgia or Armenia in the 7th century. This work of art was created in the 19th century. |
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Another building entrance on the Trg Sv. Juraj featured Mustaćon, a bearded and mustached man whose appearance was intended to intimidate and ward off enemies. |
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This house had a small garden on the first floor above ground. |
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Most of the streets in the old town were narrow and often just wide enough for two people going in opposite directions to pass one another. Although the street plan dates to medieval times, most of the streets were concrete rather than stone or brick. |
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We encountered many cats wandering the streets of the old town of Lovran. I am sure most of them lived in the homes in the old town and were just free to roam outside during the day. |
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A typical street in the old town is a patchwork of concrete and stone. The houses were not all necessarily ancient. |
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This stone arch was built in 1678. At the time, all of the coastal towns of Istria, including Lovran, were controlled by the Republic of Venice. |
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Another typical street in the old town of Lovran. The gate to the left had the words "Viva Istria" carved into the columns, Italian for "Long Live Istria". |
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Flower boxes in the windows. |
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In a corner next to a door to one of the homes in the old town, a pair of soccer cleats and empty bottles of Ožujsko beer. |
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There were lots of stone stairways in the old town. |
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Some of the doors were shorter than standard height. The one next to the stairs was less than 1.5 meters (5 feet) tall. |
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Although the stone wall looks very old, there are more modern additions to the scene. Notice the satellite dish, the air conditioner, the modern drain pipe, and the metal railings. |
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This home in the center of the old town had a very nice sitting area. |
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Outside the old town, we walked down to the lungomare to take in the view of the Kvarner Gulf. |
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Some of the locals on the rocks, saltwater fishing. |
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We stopped at a cafe for a late afternoon sladoled (ice cream) cone. This was the view from our table. |
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This statue was a war memorial for Lovran soldiers killed in the Croatian War of Independence (1991-1995). |
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Šetalište Maršala Tita, the main street in Lovran. |
Last Updated 1 August 2018 |